Woodworking.com Forum http://woodworking.com/forum/ Woodworking articles, plans, links, forums and events provided by Woodworking.com. en Thu, 17 May 2012 01:08:46 GMT vBulletin 60 http://woodworking.com/forum/images/misc/rss.png Woodworking.com Forum http://woodworking.com/forum/ table leg distance, support beams/aprons http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55807-table-leg-distance-support-beams-aprons&goto=newpost Tue, 15 May 2012 15:20:20 GMT So I'm starting on a new project, and my first real semi large scale wood working venture. I'm making a 4ft x 8ft table. I'm using 12/4 Poplar for the top and 6in x 6in legs. I want the big thick heafty look and feel.

I have 2 questions -

1. I don't want my legs to be in the way so I'd like to set them in pretty deep. However, with such a large heavy table, stability is of huge concern. Currently, I'm thinking about putting the legs 12in in from the sides and 18in in from the end. Do you think the table will be stable enough? I do plan on using an apron and support beams that go from leg to leg. (make sense?)

2. I'm thinking of using 4in x 4in boards set into the top of the table legs to create the apron. Think of a 2x4 in notch taken out of the top of the table legs with 4x4 boards fit into them going from leg to leg. My question is, will creating these notches in the top of the leg create any integrity issues?


Any help and advice in very welcomed.

thank you ]]> hammonac http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55807-table-leg-distance-support-beams-aprons New - lathe question http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55802-New-lathe-question&goto=newpost Sun, 13 May 2012 18:04:46 GMT Hello - I am new to this site and to woodworking in general. I recently bought a house which has a small wood lathe in the basement. It does work,... Hello - I am new to this site and to woodworking in general. I recently bought a house which has a small wood lathe in the basement. It does work, but I do not know its capabilities. I have heard that the previous owner used to make clocks, but I am curious if I can use this to make other things ( table legs.. Etc)

Any opinions or info is greatly appreciated, I have attached a picture of it, I am not sure if it's home made but it looks like it may be, it has a GE motor but the rest is made of wood. Also, what other attachments will I need, will I need a chuck, chissel.. Etc

Sorry for all the questions in advance and thank you for any help!

]]> Nrvna76 http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55802-New-lathe-question Wood for Vise http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55800-Wood-for-Vise&goto=newpost Fri, 11 May 2012 17:34:10 GMT Hello. I have a block of 12/4 hardwood that I'd like to fabricate into a vise, and I'm wondering which direction the grain should face, or if it even matters. The piece of wood is 6 X 3 X 24, and the vise is going to measure roughly 12 X 2-3/4 X 2-3/4 give or take. The other vise I have is laminated, but since I have this hunk of wood I thought I could use it for a second vise, which I really need.

Thanks for any ideas, I really appreciate any help. ]]> Before I Start azbird http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55800-Wood-for-Vise making wood roof rails for my car http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55799-making-wood-roof-rails-for-my-car&goto=newpost Fri, 11 May 2012 13:56:45 GMT Hi there- I am new this so I have a question. I own a 2012 Chevy Traverse and unfortunately, it has no roof rails. On my other car, I have roof... Hi there-
I am new this so I have a question.
I own a 2012 Chevy Traverse and unfortunately, it has no roof rails.
On my other car, I have roof rails which my Thule rail clips attach to and then I am able to add a cross bar and then my Thule roof cargo box.

So all that being siad, I have struck out trying to find manufactured roof rials for my Chevy Traverse. I think the only solution is to make them out of wood. On the Chevy there is a channel of sorts of where a roof rail can potentially go. I was thinking of building a roof rail out of some type of teak, or something that will stand the outside element and attached it in this channel.
At this point I would be able to attach my Thule rail clips to the new wood roof rail and then add the metal crossbars.
Any help would greatly be appreciated.
Please remember, I am only looking to add the roof rails, not a wood roof rack.
Thanks ]]> Before I Start amacbabe http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55799-making-wood-roof-rails-for-my-car 5 board bench joinery http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55798-5-board-bench-joinery&goto=newpost Fri, 11 May 2012 10:07:35 GMT I found this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MX4fX...feature=g-vrec

And was thinking I might do something like that for my next project. Would I be okay with dowels and glue? I thought screws and nails were cheating? ]]> boneyabba http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55798-5-board-bench-joinery I am thinking about getting a lathe But it needs an extendor table. http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55797-I-am-thinking-about-getting-a-lathe-But-it-needs-an-extendor-table&goto=newpost Fri, 11 May 2012 02:15:56 GMT Hi I have been looking at lathes for a while playing around with ideas and such. I was hoping not to go over $1500 for a good one but have been... Hi I have been looking at lathes for a while playing around with ideas and such.

I was hoping not to go over $1500 for a good one but have been having a hard time finding the one i want.

Originally I was going to go with the "Jet JWL-1642EVS, 16" x 42" EVS PRO Wood Lathe, 1-1/2HP" but darn is it expensive lol. The normal price is around $2300
http://jettools.com/us/manufacturing...product=273518

I was wondering about a metal lathe because i heard they could do both metal or wood.

Normally they would be more expensive but i happened to see this for $1200.

It is a bit old but i would love to have a metal lathe as well.

http://springfield.craigslist.org/tls/2995584320.html

Sadly it is only 36" length and i could use a little longer. Could i buy or build an extension for it? I guess a better question would be is there a universal lathe extension or somthing?

Thanks. ]]> General Woodworking woody woodchips http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55797-I-am-thinking-about-getting-a-lathe-But-it-needs-an-extendor-table First project complete- comments and advice? http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55795-First-project-complete-comments-and-advice&goto=newpost Thu, 10 May 2012 00:13:32 GMT Okay, starting a new thread for my sofa table now that it is finished. I figure a lot of people wouldn't look at the thread on staining and whatnot- sorry for being an attention hog.

So, this is my first completed "big" project. Like, I made a coaster holder and a book stand and misc. widgets before this. But this was my first start to finish piece of actual furniture. It was custom dimensions for my best friend's mother who wanted a piece for a particular part of her house for years and years and could not find one. Basically just a long sofa table- but only 10" wide.

I looked at google images for ideas and eventually found a piece I kind of liked to use as muse.

The whole thing is made out of whatever the cheap white pine stuff is I found at the local lumber place- just the cheapest I could find since I don't know what I am doing.

My glue-up for the top was pretty good, but not perfectly smooth. I wanted to hand plane it totally smooth, but... I couldn't figure out how to make my plane work effectively. Damn myself for not taking 7th grade woodshop. I wound up taking it back to the lumber place (which offers some milling services) and had them run it through the giant planner. They charge like a buck a pass or something. So that is how I got my top flat.

The bottom has slats that run perpendicular to the table itself. I used my router (first time) to cut a channel in the two rails so the slats would sit flush. I did a really shitty job and many of them had play. I cut some shims and filled what gaps I could that way and then used some filler on the rest. Still not 100% but it looks pretty cool.

I feel like I choked completely on sanding and staining. Every step had major problems. For next time I think I want a better sander (I am kind of impatient and I feel like something that cost more than 9$ might work better?). I will also try wood conditioner and actually wiping the excess stain off. I am still pretty unclear on how all that is supposed to flow. I will also try a different brand of clearcoat and hope it isn't developed marketed and distributed by Satan. That stuff was miserable.

So- same link to pics. I would love comments and advice. Be as harsh as you like.

http://dickle.shutterfly.com/pictures/594

Thanks,
T ]]> boneyabba http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55795-First-project-complete-comments-and-advice Vintage Craftsman Table Saw Motor Stopped Rotating. Now Just Hums http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55793-Vintage-Craftsman-Table-Saw-Motor-Stopped-Rotating-Now-Just-Hums&goto=newpost Wed, 09 May 2012 19:31:43 GMT Hi all - I have a starting problem with my old Craftsman table saw. I’ve seen numerous posts abut problems like this, so I think it must be... Hi all - I have a starting problem with my old Craftsman table saw. I’ve seen numerous posts abut problems like this, so I think it must be capacitor, centrifugal switch, or windings. Here’s what I know:

Table Saw - 113.298130 (belt drive contractor type, circa 1987)

Motor - 113.12171 1 HP

I’ve had the saw for years and it has always worked flawlessly. I was using it yesterday and when adjusting the motor position to get the correct slack, and because the sliding pins were not sliding easily, I found I was jerking the motor assembly more than normal. When I went to start again... I got the hum.

With unit switched on, hum, no blade rotation, no smoke, no stink. Switched off, the blade turns freely. When I left the switch on for maybe 15 seconds, the 20 amp fuse blew.

I took out the capacitor. Looks good, no sign of degradation or fouling. With wires removed, I put ohm meter across terminals. Meter went to zero and rose slowly. Did that both ways (if that means anything).

Removed motor. Removed wire terminal plate. All looked somewhat dusty. Blew out entire motor as much as possible with air gun. Viewing the centrifugal switch as best I could from the outside, all looked pristine - but I could not see contacts.

With the motor assembly removed but still wired and clamped to the table top, I tried to start it. Same hum. I then spun the belt pulley just prior to throwing the switch and the pulley continued to turn slowly. This happened in both directions. I also put a voltmeter across the white and black wire terminals during start. Voltage climbed (not instantaneous) to about 90 VAC, but I chickened out at that point and switched off. Maybe a clue there?

So, I’d be real appreciative if someone could give me some tests to do (I’m a hack at this sort of thing but willing to try) that would help rule in or out problems with any of the usual suspects. Like - definitive test on capacitor (I can’t measure MFD). Is there something I can do rule in or out the centrifugal switch without further disassembly? (I think, without any help from you folks, my next step would be to disasseble the motor and check contacts.) And can I check windings? And what else?

Thanks for your help.

Kelsoz ]]> Power Tools kelsoz http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55793-Vintage-Craftsman-Table-Saw-Motor-Stopped-Rotating-Now-Just-Hums Which type of Satin Black Paint for a Computer Desk? http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55792-Which-type-of-Satin-Black-Paint-for-a-Computer-Desk&goto=newpost Wed, 09 May 2012 18:42:33 GMT Hey all.

I'm ignorantly stupidly braindead when it comes to painting. I was wanting to know what type of paint I would need to make a satin black finish on a computer desk and what type of primer would be best advised(if any)?

I plan on using birch wood to build the desk, but now I'm at the point of picking my paint.


Was wanting a finish much like the below

]]> General Woodworking Ambient http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55792-Which-type-of-Satin-Black-Paint-for-a-Computer-Desk newly entered http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55790-newly-entered&goto=newpost Wed, 09 May 2012 12:03:49 GMT hello im keller.. new in this forum.. i want to learn more about woodworking and i think this is the best forum for wood working.. hello
im keller..
new in this forum..
i want to learn more about woodworking and i think this is the best forum for wood working.. ]]> matrict40 http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55790-newly-entered Adding a miter slot in a phenolic top http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55789-Adding-a-miter-slot-in-a-phenolic-top&goto=newpost Wed, 09 May 2012 01:40:11 GMT So I just purchased, on sale, from Jointech a 27 X 36 phenolic router table for my table saw and would like to add a miter slot. What is the best way... So I just purchased, on sale, from Jointech a 27 X 36 phenolic router table for my table saw and would like to add a miter slot. What is the best way to route out the slot in the phenolic material?

Thanks

Danimal063 ]]> Around the Shop danimal063 http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55789-Adding-a-miter-slot-in-a-phenolic-top Corner Curio Cabinet Plans? http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55788-Corner-Curio-Cabinet-Plans&goto=newpost Tue, 08 May 2012 17:55:51 GMT
Hi Folks,
I've had little luck searching for palns for a pair of corner curio cabinets I want to build for the LOML. I'm looking for something similar to:

http://www.amazon.com/Howard-Miller-..._sim_sbs_hg_12

Any help would be appreciated.
Gene
]]> General Woodworking MoreToolsForMe http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55788-Corner-Curio-Cabinet-Plans refinishing oak coffee table http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55787-refinishing-oak-coffee-table&goto=newpost Tue, 08 May 2012 16:14:21 GMT I've been sanding an old oak coffee table from the 50's. It actually looked like a maple finish but when I started sanding I found it was oak. It's two tiered and the spindle between the two tiers seem to be pine or another wood.
The way I have stripped the table down to the bare wood is by sanding. Does anyone recommend a sander that would get into the groves of the spindles and other small places?
I am thinking of different non toxic finishes for this table. I am thinking of tung oil. Do you use a stain before you use the tung oil or will the tung oil color it enough to look as though it's been stained alittle. Also since the table is oak and the spindles of a softer wood what would be the color difference if you just used tung oil and no stain. I would like a rather natural finish with alot of the grain showing.
The furniture I do have is Stickley with the quarter sawn ok and I would like the oak to fit in with the Stickley finish.

Janice ]]> Home Improvement jkstein http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55787-refinishing-oak-coffee-table Getting started with Inlay http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55786-Getting-started-with-Inlay&goto=newpost Mon, 07 May 2012 18:14:12 GMT Hey everyone - I am looking for some advice. I would like to incorporate an inlay into my next project (A small tabletop), and I have never done... Hey everyone -
I am looking for some advice. I would like to incorporate an inlay into my next project (A small tabletop), and I have never done one in the past or watched someone do one.

While I understand the concept of using an inlay bit and bushings cutting the pattern in your workpiece and the actual piece to be in-layed, I am not finding a lot of info on how to complete the job from there. Is it just glued in and sanded? IF so, should it be proud of the surface of the table? IS there anything wrong with attempting one in maple plywood? Are there any tips or suggestions or best practices for getting it just right?

I looked through several of my books last night and most of them just touched on cutting the pattern and the inlay piece - and not much about how to finish it from there.

Any advice or links to informative articles would be great. I havent found much online, but I havent looked real hard online either.

TIA,

Doug ]]> sotan http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55786-Getting-started-with-Inlay Fasteners for break-apart walking sticks http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55785-Fasteners-for-break-apart-walking-sticks&goto=newpost Mon, 07 May 2012 03:29:22 GMT I have recently had hip problems. That started me walking with a walking stick, which in turn got me interested in *making* walking sticks. I can... I have recently had hip problems. That started me walking with a walking stick, which in turn got me interested in *making* walking sticks. I can manage to make sticks, both from turning wood and from found wood but I would like to make sticks that I can break down for storage in overhead compartments in airplanes. I''ve poked around some search engines, but can't find a place that sells fasteners that allow me to fasten cylinders together. I'd be happy to try threaded mounts, bayonet mounts, hinges, or anything else, but don't know where to look for that kind of hardware. Can anybody point me in the right direction?

Thanks!

billo ]]> billollib http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55785-Fasteners-for-break-apart-walking-sticks How to Handle Large Sheets of Plywood on the Tablesaw? http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55783-How-to-Handle-Large-Sheets-of-Plywood-on-the-Tablesaw&goto=newpost Sun, 06 May 2012 23:37:04 GMT I'm new to woodworking so i haven't quite worked out a solution for myself just yet; I was wondering what your method is for handling large sheets of plywood on the tablesaw. My saw has a rip capacity of only about 32" so in some cases, i'm having to cut "on the wrong side of the blade". That isn't such a horrible thing i guess but the real issue is that i'm having a tough time feeding the plywood and keeping it tight against the fence at the same time. Even with some infeed / outfeed rollers, its still pretty difficult to really get an accurate cut. short of getting a buddy to come by to help, i'm not sure what i could do differently.

Thanks,
Mike ]]> mikeinga http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55783-How-to-Handle-Large-Sheets-of-Plywood-on-the-Tablesaw <![CDATA[I'm back with a question]]> http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55782-I-m-back-with-a-question&goto=newpost Sun, 06 May 2012 15:21:20 GMT So after a long three years of not being on here and not being able to work on any projects after leaving Albuquerque for Colorado (sheds didn't have enough ventilation), I've moved to Ohio and have access to the local Air Force base wood shop. I'm going to make some nightstands for the kids but decided that I won't go the wooden runners for this project like I did for my girlfriend's dresser. I intend to use drawer slides for the two drawers but am not sure how well the undermount slides will work for something that shouldn't hold alot of weight but might depending on how they throw their things in there.

My plans right now are calling for a 21" high nightstand of which 18 inches would consist of the drawer area. I'd like to build the nightstands out of cedar with pine or birch (haven't decided) drawers measuring 18x12x6 (with the cedar face, 17 1/4" without the face).

What's the best way to plan on installing the slides and are there considerations I should think of before even getting started doing something like this? ]]> General Woodworking cowboyup3371 http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55782-I-m-back-with-a-question Ent Center in the sky http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55781-Ent-Center-in-the-sky&goto=newpost Sun, 06 May 2012 01:30:58 GMT Folks, Please peruse my latest creation, installed earlier today... Client was a couple living in a 44th floor condo in downtown Chicago. Their... Folks,

Please peruse my latest creation, installed earlier today...

Client was a couple living in a 44th floor condo in downtown Chicago. Their existing ent center was small and trashy, to say the least. They wanted something slightly bigger in that the unit should take up an entire wall and run floor to ceiling. They had a budget of about $4K, so I had a tall order to fill...

Wood is poplar, ulrimately spray stained Burnt Umber over a Java stain. Media base has a three section look, while the hutch above has been sized to possibly acept up to a 70" TV down the road. Fluted columns separate the center from the side towers. Rope crown is complimented by rope baseboard. Five puck lights are all controlled via one switch set within the center base. Additional network wiring is run inside the right fluted column to allow a router to be hidden...

Enjoy...
Attached Images
]]> Completed Projects dvelleux http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55781-Ent-Center-in-the-sky Any Scum Lower Than Ted Affiliate? http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55778-Any-Scum-Lower-Than-Ted-Affiliate&goto=newpost Fri, 04 May 2012 19:47:29 GMT Just minutes ago I received an email from a person to let me know that some scumbag had stolen one of my plans and posted it on a Squiddo page. Sure... Just minutes ago I received an email from a person to let me know that some scumbag had stolen one of my plans and posted it on a Squiddo page. Sure enough, there it was along with a bunch of banners for our infamous Ted. In all my years on the www I have never run into anyone with with less class than these characters.

Please don't support these leeches and maybe they will give up and go away. ]]> Just Talking FrankC http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55778-Any-Scum-Lower-Than-Ted-Affiliate thinking of rebulding a powermattic 66. What am i getting into? http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55777-thinking-of-rebulding-a-powermattic-66-What-am-i-getting-into&goto=newpost Thu, 03 May 2012 21:01:30 GMT Hello; I have been looking for a table saw for months now. I originally wanted a ridgid 4512 but after doing research I decided on something with... Hello;
I have been looking for a table saw for months now. I originally wanted a ridgid 4512 but after doing research I decided on something with more weight. I really like this 1988 powermattic 66 I found online. It's listed a 9 (i don't think this is correct, do you?) inch for 500 or make offer and looks pretty bad. The saw has no fence, miter gauge or guard and no idea if it is one or three phase.
If I were to rebuild this saw I would expect to sand blast and repaint the cabinet. Probably replace the bearings, buy a new fence and polish the top up. What am I missing, or where else should I plan on spending more money? What are the big worries in buying a saw like this and what should I pay for it.

Thanks for your help
Dave ]]> Power Tools gravydave http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55777-thinking-of-rebulding-a-powermattic-66-What-am-i-getting-into Table saws - Left or Right Tilt? http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55772-Table-saws-Left-or-Right-Tilt&goto=newpost Wed, 02 May 2012 14:34:47 GMT What's the deal with this? I have never used a right-tilt table saw.... but, my shop partner just bought a used Delta Unisaw at an auction that is right-tilt. It was such a good deal, that we figured it was worth it, even if we had to change the way we have always used table saws. This saw was being used as a dado machine for cabinet backs, so we're selling the powermatic feeder that was attached to it(anyone here interested?), and buying/making a 50" biesemeyer fence. It might be weird at first, with the fence on the left, but it can't be THAT much different... is it? Anyone here prefer right-tilt? Is there a reason they make right-tilt saws? It seems they may be made for lefties? What do you think? ]]> Power Tools deepwood http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55772-Table-saws-Left-or-Right-Tilt Setting up a Resaw Feeder http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55771-Setting-up-a-Resaw-Feeder&goto=newpost Tue, 01 May 2012 04:36:51 GMT Thanks in advance for any advice!

I purchased a used Centauro Feeder -- wow is that thing heavy! It has a pretty good size feeder/roller about 10" Diameter and 10" tall -- I'll be resawing blanks that are 12" x 42" long -- 4/4 to 8/4 in thickness (cutting 1/8" to 1/4" slices out).

Question #1 - Where should I position the center of the feeder roller in relation to the front/cutting edge of the bandsaw blade?

Question #2 - It looks like I'll need to add 2" to 3" inch extensions on the corner of my Bandsaw -- which is a 32" Invicta. Are there premade 'corner extensions' available... (probably not) what material would you use?

Question #3 - I don't like the roller fences that I see with most Resaw feeders... I'm thinking of making a 5' long fence out of 2" MDF and facing it with Formica --- I'll make it 11" high -- and then counter bolt it to my existing fence... any ideas/feedback about this?

Thanks again.
Brent ]]> Power Tools BPMorehouse http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55771-Setting-up-a-Resaw-Feeder Setting up a Resaw Feeder http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55770-Setting-up-a-Resaw-Feeder&goto=newpost Tue, 01 May 2012 04:36:00 GMT Thanks in advance for any advice!

I purchased a used Centauro Feeder -- wow is that thing heavy! It has a pretty good size feeder/roller about 10" Diameter and 10" tall -- I'll be resawing blanks that are 12" x 42" long -- 4/4 to 8/4 in thickness (cutting 1/8" to 1/4" slices out).

Question #1 - Where should I position the center of the feeder roller in relation to the front/cutting edge of the bandsaw blade?

Question #2 - It looks like I'll need to add 2" to 3" inch extensions on the corner of my Bandsaw -- which is a 32" Invicta. Are there premade 'corner extensions' available... (probably not) what material would you use?

Question #3 - I don't like the roller fences that I see with most Resaw feeders... I'm thinking of making a 5' long fence out of 2" MDF and facing it with Formica --- I'll make it 11" high -- and then counter bolt it to my existing fence... any ideas/feedback about this?

Thanks again.
Brent ]]> BPMorehouse http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55770-Setting-up-a-Resaw-Feeder Will Cypress rot? http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55768-Will-Cypress-rot&goto=newpost Mon, 30 Apr 2012 17:54:17 GMT My wife has voluteered me to build a pergola for her. I am thinking about using rough sawn cypress for it. I will be using 4x6's for the corner posts. Will they rot if set in the ground on a gravel bed with concrete poured around them? If so, what could I do to prevent rot but still use the cypress? :confused: ]]> General Woodworking willsdad03 http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55768-Will-Cypress-rot JessEm Rout-R-Lift II in Kreg prs2000 router table http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55767-JessEm-Rout-R-Lift-II-in-Kreg-prs2000-router-table&goto=newpost Mon, 30 Apr 2012 15:05:54 GMT I'm looking at the Kreg prs2000 router table but using the JessEm Rout-R-Lift II Router Lift. Is this possible? Are there any modifications that need to be made for this to be secured in the the table. The plates are the same size so no trouble there. I have the necessary tools to drill new mounting holes if necessary. I just think $300+ for other lifts is beyond ridiculous. Thanks guys ]]> Power Tools Sirgreggins http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55767-JessEm-Rout-R-Lift-II-in-Kreg-prs2000-router-table <![CDATA[I'm a beginner woodworker. Do you have any ideas how I should get into the hobby?]]> http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55766-I-m-a-beginner-woodworker-Do-you-have-any-ideas-how-I-should-get-into-the-hobby&goto=newpost Mon, 30 Apr 2012 01:00:46 GMT I've started many hobbies by trying to learn them on my own. I don't think woodworking is a good hobby to learn on your own. I would recommend taking a beginner class on woodworking. Local woodworking stores, high schools and technical colleges often have classes geared towards the beginning woodworker.

Power tools are can be very dangerous. However, with proper instruction they are safer to use. I would not let anyone I know use a table saw or jointer without first at least watching it in person. Books, magazines and the Internet are all great places for gathering information. However, reading about using tools and actually using tools are two totally different things.

I took a beginning woodworking class years ago. While the class itself wasn't great, it allowed me to try all the tools under the supervision of an instructor without actually spending a penny on tools. Had I not taken that class I would have spent too much money on cheap tools and then just replaced them with adequate tools later on. Knowing what tools to get can only come from experience. The perfect tool for one person isn't necessarily perfect for the next.


plummer ]]> General Woodworking astig1234 http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55766-I-m-a-beginner-woodworker-Do-you-have-any-ideas-how-I-should-get-into-the-hobby Leveling maple plywood - help please! http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55763-Leveling-maple-plywood-help-please!&goto=newpost Sun, 29 Apr 2012 17:36:41 GMT I just built my first large project out of high quality (supposedly) 3/4” maple plywood. After I got the top built which is 18” x 76” including a 3”... I just built my first large project out of high quality (supposedly) 3/4” maple plywood. After I got the top built which is 18” x 76” including a 3” solid maple edging, and lightly sanded, I noticed some slight waviness in the plywood surface. Apparently I didn’t notice that sheet of maple plywood had the waviness in it – pieces from another sheet are fine.

I was planning on finishing the wood with General Finishes Satin Gel Topcoat. Is there anything I can do to smooth out the surface? The waviness is slight – probably about 1/64”. I doubt I could sand it out without going thru the veneer. Is there any clear finish, compatible with the oil based urethane finish, that would level it out – like self leveling?

Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated! Thanks. ]]> General Woodworking Hydro89 http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55763-Leveling-maple-plywood-help-please! How to Make Bedroom Cabinets for Everything http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55760-How-to-Make-Bedroom-Cabinets-for-Everything&goto=newpost Sat, 28 Apr 2012 17:21:09 GMT Short video about the best use of storage space in a small bedroom / enjoy! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IuEXSU4Bhmc We have a number of... Short video about the best use of storage space in a small bedroom / enjoy!



We have a number of other videos plus many blog articles and a large gallery on out site.

Russell Hudson / Hudson Cabinetmaking, Inc. ]]> Completed Projects Russell Hudson http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55760-How-to-Make-Bedroom-Cabinets-for-Everything Drawer slides for a glass desktop http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55757-Drawer-slides-for-a-glass-desktop&goto=newpost Sat, 28 Apr 2012 04:23:21 GMT I have a closet in my studio apartment and I want to put a desk within the closet (I have no room for it anywhere else). I have found some bookcases... I have a closet in my studio apartment and I want to put a desk within the closet (I have no room for it anywhere else). I have found some bookcases that fit nicely within the closet but now I am working on the writing surface. I want the writing surface to be a piece of glass about 1 meter wide by 50 cm deep. I want to be able to slide it out when I need to do work (there will be a keyboard tray suspended underneath it - that is one of the reasons why I want it to be glass). I need it to slide about 25 to 30 cm out, a little more than half of the depth. I am looking for drawer glides that will let me do this. The ones I see in the local hardware store require screws be used to screw the hardware to the (wooden) drawer. Is there a drawer slide that has a clamping mechanism rather than holes for screws? My objective in this post is to find some way to install the glass desktop so that it will easily pull out and slide back in. ]]> General Woodworking pengyou http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55757-Drawer-slides-for-a-glass-desktop Doomsday Preppers http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55754-Doomsday-Preppers&goto=newpost Fri, 27 Apr 2012 21:37:19 GMT Any woodworkers prepping for upcoming disasters? If so what are you doing and what do you predict is coming. I don't put a lot into the 2012 ending of the Mayan calendar thing, but I do feel something is going to happen to change all of our lives in the next few years. Could it be a total colapse of our economy or some EMP event from natural or man-made sources. I have been stocking up on food and water and can provide a pic of my supplies so far if others show interest in this thread. ]]> Just Talking slyost_59 http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55754-Doomsday-Preppers Best wood glue for Mortise/Tenon glue up - Exterior Mahogany door http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55753-Best-wood-glue-for-Mortise-Tenon-glue-up-Exterior-Mahogany-door&goto=newpost Fri, 27 Apr 2012 20:30:53 GMT Hi All, First time poster. I am looking for suggestions for the BEST glues for gluing up rails to stiles on an exterior mahogany door project. I am... Hi All,
First time poster.
I am looking for suggestions for the BEST glues for gluing up rails to stiles on an exterior mahogany door project. I am building with mortise and tenon joints. I need to have a long (about an 1/2 hour) for open time so that I am not rushed during assembling time. The longer open time is needed so I am not pressed for time. I tend to get a little spastic and crazy and I start yelling at the helper(wife) to hurry.
I am not sure if I need gap filling or not because I am host sure what constitutes a gap. I have read that the mortise needs to be about .001 bigger than the tenon. My tenons slide into the mortise with light pushing until about 3/4 of the way down and then taps from a deadblow is needed to seat it. I know that there are some gaps within the interior of the mortise of about 1/32 to 1/16 in a few places like the ends radiuses where the radius is not the same due to sanding/rasping the tenons and the sides where the router bit got out of control. My tenons are fitting pretty well but what is considered a gap where gap filling is needed? .001 is a gap.
The door will be facing west and is in south florida. It is covered but it will get wet at times. The finish will have UV protection and be marine grade.
I do not think TiteBondIII will work for me because I will not have the open time. I hear good things about Dap WoodWeld Plastic Resin but their website indicates it is for interior work. I am not sure Epoxy is the way to go because I hear is will flex. This will be a heavy door and I need the strongest joint possible.

Any REAL WORLD advice would be appreciated.

Thanks John ]]> General Woodworking whattodo http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55753-Best-wood-glue-for-Mortise-Tenon-glue-up-Exterior-Mahogany-door Making concrete disappear... http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55752-Making-concrete-disappear&goto=newpost Fri, 27 Apr 2012 12:18:50 GMT Folks, I am pleased to present my latest creation... Client was a person I worked for before. Her mom passed and she wanted to remodel her... Folks,

I am pleased to present my latest creation...

Client was a person I worked for before. Her mom passed and she wanted to remodel her mom's old condo, which had NOT been upated since it was built fifty years ago. Kitchen was a VERY small galley-style kitchen, with two openings in the walls. That confinement was the start of the entire process. A general contractor had the walls removed, HOWEVER, there was telecomm wiring within the walls which had to stay, hence the wires needs to be concealed. Thus it begins...

Wood species is poplar spray stained espresso. The entire building had concrete floors and ceiling, with exposed columns. I was able to hide the small cloumn by surrounding it with two pantry cabinets, one 12" deep, the other 7". Cabinet above the fridge has my trademark pull-out tray. A glass door cabinet is to the right of the sink, above the first of two trash bin cabinets. The second trash bin cab is to the left of the stove. The wall cabs above the stove are a custom 26.25" tall. The peninsula features two 42" wide cabinets, the first with half-moon pull-out trays, the other with 12" deep drawers for pots and pans. The granite atop the peninsula gives enough room to potentially land a small aircraft. The counter overhang is supported by 4 Mission style bar brackets, with two faux doors separating 3 of the brackets on the long edge...

Simple, yet elegant...

Enjoy...











]]> Completed Projects dvelleux http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55752-Making-concrete-disappear Lumber and lumber company equipment for sale http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55750-Lumber-and-lumber-company-equipment-for-sale&goto=newpost Thu, 26 Apr 2012 19:55:09 GMT Anybody that lives not too far from north east Illinois might be interested in this sale. A lumber company has gone out of business and their assets... Anybody that lives not too far from north east Illinois might be interested in this sale. A lumber company has gone out of business and their assets are up for sale. Lot's of wood and various power and hand tools. Give it a look: http://njgallivan.com/ASSETS-OF-FORM...NY-a179771.php ]]> Trading Post njgallivan http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55750-Lumber-and-lumber-company-equipment-for-sale Where are the pics? http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55749-Where-are-the-pics&goto=newpost Thu, 26 Apr 2012 17:43:10 GMT I have been away from this site and from ww for the last 18 months or so (long story). Anyway, I am back now and this site seems to have undergone a... I have been away from this site and from ww for the last 18 months or so (long story). Anyway, I am back now and this site seems to have undergone a radical transformation since I have been away.

One question I have though - it seems like the pictures are missing from a lot of old posts? I dont have an example, but I have clicked on several old posts, that make references to pictures that were obviously there at one time - but now I am not seeing them.

Has anyone else noticed this? Do I need to look in a special place or am I just an idiot?

Thanks guys - it's great to get back in the shop, and back on this site and see old and new names and faces.

Doug ]]> Just Talking sotan http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55749-Where-are-the-pics Interesting day... http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55744-Interesting-day&goto=newpost Sun, 22 Apr 2012 02:30:27 GMT Had an interesting day: Started in Lombard touching up a kitchen I made after the floor was reinstalled for a SIXTH time!!! Went back to my shop to... Had an interesting day: Started in Lombard touching up a kitchen I made after the floor was reinstalled for a SIXTH time!!! Went back to my shop to start on some things while my ex-mechanic assistant worked on my van a bit. He got done, then did not call me to say he was going to go back to the parts store to have them check the codes...

I looked for him and called him and he said he was on his way back,... so I waited...and waited...and waited. After MANY unreturned calls, I had called the cops, but when they were there, he called as he turned the corner...

Turns out he was racially profiled by a cop, since he is an American of Puerto Rican descent, driving am older van with temp plates until I get my valid ones. Cop asked for the insurance card, but my assistant nervously forgot it was right in the new visor organizer above his head. Cop then made him spread eagle on the van's hood, while the cop checked the doors. When the side cargo door opened, the cop immediately jumped in my van looking for stolen items after he saw my tools and stuff for another client inside...

This gets better...

After TWO AND A HALF HOURS of being on the hood, the cop finally found my insurance card in my visor. But to add insult to injury, the cop patted down my assistant, removed his wallet and went away from him to supposedly check his ID. All that happened next was the cop proceeded to help himself to $80.00 cash in my assistant's wallet!!!

And now do you wonder why many contractors FEAR cops? Most carry large sums of cash sometimes to buy supplies. Imagine trying to explain to a client precisely why supplies cannot be bought because they were shaken down. It is DISGUSTING how the cops at Grand & Central basically smirked at us when we tried to report this. My assistant was so shaken by the day's events he forgot to get the cop's star number and car number, so this was all for naught, except for the lesson it taught us both... ]]> Just Talking dvelleux http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55744-Interesting-day Looking for hardware http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55743-Looking-for-hardware&goto=newpost Sat, 21 Apr 2012 17:38:26 GMT I'm building a French Colonial Baby Cradle (plans from Woodcraft) for my daughter. I'm getting stuck on finding the Hook & Eye that the cradle uses to hang the basket to the stand. It's a std hook but the eye has a slight bend in it. Hoping someone here has done one or has an idea where to find. Woodcraft has nothing as I've called them ]]> General Woodworking Chester http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55743-Looking-for-hardware installing hinges http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55742-installing-hinges&goto=newpost Sat, 21 Apr 2012 17:30:44 GMT I am not a complete rookie but there is so much I do not know. I am trying to figure how to install small hinges on my project. It is a clock case.... I am not a complete rookie but there is so much I do not know. I am trying to figure how to install small hinges on my project. It is a clock case. No problems on putting the hinges on the case side but how do I align the holes for attaching the hinges to the door?

Any tips would be appreciated.

Duick Storer ]]> Dick Storer http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55742-installing-hinges staining maple - help! blotchy! http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55737-staining-maple-help!-blotchy!&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Apr 2012 01:07:07 GMT I am building a home office and am using maple for the face frames/doors/cabinets etc. I just finished the case work and put on the face frames and... I am building a home office and am using maple for the face frames/doors/cabinets etc. I just finished the case work and put on the face frames and stained them and they turned out horrible! I used a 50/50 blend of Minwax Gunstock and Red Oak stains. The colors mix well and is what I am looking for. I used some Minwax pre stain conditioner as I suspected that I might have problems (using soft maple).

The finish is completely uneven and looks really bad.

I read some internet searches and there are a lot of opinions out there. I have heard use gel stain, as well as shellac before staining, as well as dye stains.

I am leaning towards re-sanding and then using a dye stain.

What are your thoughts?

Thanks!

Sean ]]> General Woodworking Texas Rhino http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55737-staining-maple-help!-blotchy! MDO plywood...Where is it? http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55735-MDO-plywood-Where-is-it&goto=newpost Wed, 18 Apr 2012 19:50:10 GMT I am look to build some cabinets for the garage and I can't seem to find anyone that sells MDO plywood.
I am located in the Rockwall, Tx area near Dallas. Any suggestions will help. :confused:

Thanks ]]> General Woodworking Dieseldog http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55735-MDO-plywood-Where-is-it How to Make a Family Room for the Whole Family http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55734-How-to-Make-a-Family-Room-for-the-Whole-Family&goto=newpost Tue, 17 Apr 2012 22:44:44 GMT Our client's family (two adults and three children) wanted a room in which all their different activities could take place. Their TV and stereo components, video games, the computer(s), the home's business area, library shelving and additional storage (for all those small things that would clutter every surface if not put away)... were all incorporated into the plans for these built in cabinets... Our plan was to create a room that had a place for everything and look great at the same time.
Although they wanted built-ins that were richly appointed, they expressed their wish to maintain the appearance of 'hand wrought' craftsmanship. I knew they didn't want 'rustic', but perfectly straight-grained, 'select' boards and veneers wouldn't portray enough character for their tastes.
So... we decided use cherry but made sure to include some great looking imperfections, so you might get a sense of the actual trees from which this furniture was made.



I'm including my renderings so you can appreciate how our plans became realized.




Although labor intensive, rich details make a world of difference.




We've done many built-ins that are difficult to get a good picture of...
...and there are some that just seem made for it (though we removed some furniture so you could see the cabinetry).



With good design, craftsmanship and a great client... you can't go wrong.

Our web site has quite a number of projects on the web site's photo gallery. Videos as well.

Russell Hudson / Hudson Cabinetmaking, Inc. ]]> Completed Projects Russell Hudson http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55734-How-to-Make-a-Family-Room-for-the-Whole-Family How to Make a Family Room for the Whole Family http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55733-How-to-Make-a-Family-Room-for-the-Whole-Family&goto=newpost Tue, 17 Apr 2012 22:23:03 GMT Our client's family (two adults and three children) wanted a room in which all their different activities could take place. Their TV and stereo components, video games, the computer(s), the home's business area, library shelving and additional storage (for all those small things that would clutter every surface if not put away)... were all incorporated into the plans for these built in cabinets... Our plan was to create a room that had a place for everything and look great at the same time.
Although they wanted built-ins that were richly appointed, they expressed their wish to maintain the appearance of 'hand wrought' craftsmanship. I knew they didn't want 'rustic', but perfectly straight-grained, 'select' boards and veneers wouldn't portray enough character for their tastes.
So... we decided use cherry but made sure to include some great looking imperfections, so you might get a sense of the actual trees from which this furniture was made.

Hi-resolution shots are worth seeing enlarged / just click on them...
IMG_0840.jpg
IMG_0856.jpg
I'm including my renderings so you can appreciate how our plans became realized.
double comp Baum.jpg
IMG_0847.jpg
sande's file 2.jpg
IMG_0838.jpg
Although labor intensive, rich details make a world of difference.
IMG_0861B.jpg
IMG_0861A.jpg
TV unit Baum_edited-1.jpg
We've done many built-ins that are difficult to get a good picture of...
...and there are some that just seem made for it (though we removed some furniture so you could see the cabinetry).
rustic cherry.jpg
(This last shot deserves to be clicked on and seen full screen/4,000 pixs wide)

With good design, craftsmanship and a great client... you can't go wrong.

Our web site has quite a number of projects on the web site's photo gallery. Videos as well.

Russell Hudson / Hudson Cabinetmaking, Inc. ]]> Completed Projects Russell Hudson http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55733-How-to-Make-a-Family-Room-for-the-Whole-Family Best $1000 Table Saw http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55730-Best-1000-Table-Saw&goto=newpost Tue, 17 Apr 2012 16:55:05 GMT I am going to upgrade from a benchtop table saw to a floor model, most likely in the contractor saw model range. What are folks thoughts on the best... I am going to upgrade from a benchtop table saw to a floor model, most likely in the contractor saw model range. What are folks thoughts on the best saw for around 1k. I have been looking at the Powermatic 64a and the Jet Hybrid saw. Any other I should have in the mix? ]]> Power Tools j_70 http://woodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?55730-Best-1000-Table-Saw