Step 1: Download and print out the two-page PDF pattern. Note: When printing out the patterns, make sure your printer's Page Scaling option is set to "None" to prevent it from reducing the pattern size. Trim one of the two halves of the pattern along the centerline, and tape the patterns together to create the full snowflake shape.

Step 2: Mount the pattern to a piece of 1/2-in.-thick stock with spray adhesive. Press the pattern flat with a soft cloth to remove any air bubbles, then allow the adhesive to dry thoroughly (see Photo 1).

Step 3: Chuck a 3/4-in.-diameter Forstner bit in your drill press, and bore the six large holes around the perimeter of the snowflake. Make sure to back up your workpiece with scrap to prevent the bit from splintering the wood on the bottom face (see Photo 2).

Step 4: Switch to a smaller bit, and drill holes near the inside corners of the pattern to serve as starter holes for your scroll saw blade (see Photo 3). It isn't necessary to drill a hole at every corner if you plan out how you'll connect your straight cuts beforehand.

Step 5: Install a fresh, sharp blade in your scroll saw, and cut out the snowflake. Remove the large waste areas between the points of the snowflake first, then focus on the smaller detail areas (see Photo 4). Take your time when cutting out the pattern. Follow the layout lines carefully, and try to make your straight cuts in a single pass. It's harder to keep a line straight if you have to clean it up with multiple cuts.

Step 6: When you are finished scroll-sawing the pattern, soak the snowflake in mineral spirits for a few minutes to loosen the spray adhesive. Peel off the paper pattern and remove any glue residue. Allow the wood to dry.

Step 7: Clean up the straight edges of your snowflake and remove any burn marks with files and sandpaper (see Photo 5). An oscillating detail sander, such as the Multi-Max by Dremel, can speed this process up considerably. Be sure to clamp the snowflake to your workbench and support it carefully during the cleanup process to avoid breaking the delicate wings and points.

Step 8: Next, cut a round base for your trivet from a contrasting-colored wood. Make the base about an inch larger than the snowflake to form an overlap. Mill a chamfer or roundover profile around the top edge of your base with a router or rotary tool and a profiling bit (see Photo 6). Round over the bottom edge, and sand the routed edges smooth.

Step 9: Sand the faces of the snowflake and base up through the grits to 180-grit. Center the snowflake on the base, and use strips of masking tape to mark its position. Then, spread a thin coat of glue on the back of the snowflake, keeping the glue away from the edges of the pattern to avoid squeeze-out (see Photo 7). Set the snowflake in place on the base. Attach it with a few pin nails, or clamp the parts together until the glue dries.

Step 10: Apply a protective finish to the trivet. A thin, penetrating finish is a better choice than a thick surface coating for this project, since the finish must be reasonably heat-resistant. A good option is to blend equal parts mineral spirits and oil-based varnish together. Use a small craft brush to flood the finish onto the wood, working the finish into all the nooks and crannies (see Photo 8). Let the finish soak in for a few minutes, then wipe off the excess with a soft cloth. Repeat the process when the finish dries.

Step 11: Cut a circle of felt to line the back of the trivet. Glue the felt in place, stretching and smoothing it with a block of wood (see Photo 9). Your snowflake trivet is now ready to blow into your next wintertime meal!